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Otari fixed guides

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Listens2tubes:
Actually why remove the guide edge when your spacing needs to remain 6.2MM. for 1/4" tape? It doesn't look like you use the white ceramic edge guides, as on the tension arms, for the tape guides.

BTW: When I state "With an attempt to cut into the guide is made it chips." I meant the edge guide, not the cutter.

ironbut:
Hi Neal,

I think the reason for having to take the fixed guides apart is the change to rolling guides. If you look at the pictures on the TP home page you'll notice that there's a line in the middle of the guides. This is where the two bearings meet.
Reducing the friction caused by the fixed guides make a very audible improvement particularly in the highs frequency response (decreases scrape flutter).

Listens2tubes:
Yes, but this discussion is about the black edge guides that are changed to silvery nes in the pix of the modded 5050. Those silver looking edges should be the same size as the black ones, unless the 6.2mm spacing is not a close enough tolerance for 1/4 inch tape handling. 

docb:
The five piece black and stainless guides (stainless spacer, black edge guide, center bushing, black edge guide, stainless spacer) are on earlier Otaris. Steve is correct that the black and silver guide has to come apart to install the ball bearings, and we reuse the black edge guides. It's a PITA because of the threadlocker used to hold the stock guide together. What is shown on the web page is ball bearings and the black edge guides. Perhaps they look silvery, but they are the stock black edge guides, only the center part is modified.


There are also one piece fixed stainless guides, which are used on later Otari models (some B-IIIs only, I suspect). Perhaps this is the source of some confusion. We tried to come up with a ball bearing replacement for those one piece guides using some stainless spacers, the ceramic washers we use on other guides and the two bearings. Spacing worked out fine, but unfortunately the ceramic washers can't take a lot of compression and they tend to crack you mount it all back on the machine and tighten the mounting screw. At this point we don't have a viable replacement for the later solid guides other than finding a set of the old five piece ones and modding them.

Listens2tubes:
Thanks Dan and Steve. I think the terminology is getting in the way. Dan's breakdown of the parts sorted out my misunderstanding of the words and pictures. Shiny stuff never reflects it's true look.

So I have one guide apart in three pieces. Stainless spacer with black edge and 3 x 6mm threaded rod - center bushing -  stainless steel spacer with black edge. Yes that thread lock is freakin tough. We had the locked in the lathe and used a pump pliers. The stainless on the pliers end got marred but not mangled and would be fine in the bottom position since the marks are more to the other end. Still having a lathe is helpful in not marring both ends since this is a herculean effort. An of course the lathe could be used to clean up the spacers if needed.

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