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Author Topic: Teac X-2000r & 1000r Questions:New Member  (Read 16466 times)

Offline vintagesound

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Teac X-2000r & 1000r Questions:New Member
« on: July 01, 2009, 07:00:07 PM »
Thanks for the replys on where to get a Teac X-2000r tension roller.I did try Reelpro,Angelfire,Teac,etc. with NO success(either out of stock or longer available).Some one on The Bay told me that a roller from a Teax X-3 or X-7 would work with my X-2000r.Can anyone comfirm this ? From my understading the X-2000r is a unique tension roller that was made for only this machine.Thanks aAgain.
« Last Edit: November 10, 2009, 08:29:20 AM by vintagesound »

Offline ironbut

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Re: Teac X-2000r & 1000r Questions:New Member
« Reply #1 on: July 01, 2009, 08:21:02 PM »
Hi John, welcome to the forum.

There's a two places I can think of offhand that you might try to get that tensioner.

http://www.reelprosoundguys.com/

http://www.angelfire.com/electronic2/vintagetx/

Don't just go by what's on their web sites, email them and ask.
Regarding the problems with auto-reverse, I know na-sing! But there is an alternate forum where the guys are heavily into the X series Teacs;

http://www.tapeheads.net/

That should get you fixed up.
steve koto
 Sony scd 777es(R. Kern mods)> Vpi Aires>Dynavector XX-2mkll>Bent mu>CAT ultimate>CJ premeir 140>Magnepan 1.6qr(Jensen xover)Headphone Eddie Current Zana Deux>AT ad2000,HD800 ,Metric Halo ULN-2 (battery powered),
 HE Audio Jades

Offline Tim

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Re: Teac X-2000r & 1000r Questions:New Member
« Reply #2 on: July 01, 2009, 09:48:29 PM »
Also try Teac parts department @ 323-727-4840 for the tension arm roller.  It's surprising what they stock for the older machines like the 2000R. The p/n for the tension arm roller is 5800549500.  Also, a "parts unit" can be had cheaply off of Ebay sometimes.  Many Teac models used that exact same roller, but I don't know offhand, which ones.  BTW, you can download the service manual for the 2000R at hifiengine.com (a free site).

The loop forming between capstan shafts on the 1000R is a defect capstan belt.  Teac still sells them (p/n 5534692001).  Don't use a substitute belt for this application.

Tim
« Last Edit: July 01, 2009, 09:54:14 PM by timlein »
Tim Leinbaugh
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with RTR specialty.

Offline shimoda

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Re: Teac X-2000r & 1000r Questions:New Member
« Reply #3 on: July 13, 2009, 01:53:43 PM »
I just picked up a TEAC x2000r (black) last night from someone.  I won't say the price b/c it might surprise a few.  Nonetheless, I was excited having wanted a r2r for a while to digitize some reels I found a couple of years back.  From everything I read, this seems like quite the find for an audiophile.  I had to remove the nab hub adapters for the 7" reels I have and the machine would rewind and ff but not move.  Using the lift switch I could tell the audio was coming but it just wouldn't play.  Eventually I got it partly disassembled to find the capstan drive belt practically melted.  The device had sat outdoors in a bag and box for sometime.  It is hard to tell how much the unit was ever used, but I don't think it was used much.  I watched the video on youtube about replacing the belt, but the 1000r looks a bit different in the back.  Any help or advice on how to replace this belt, when I decide to get one, would be greatly appereciated.

shimoda

Offline Kenkirk

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Re: Teac X-2000r & 1000r Questions:New Member
« Reply #4 on: July 14, 2009, 07:58:58 AM »
Here ya go... credit goes to WBob from the reel to reel group back a few years. I saved some of his best posts.

Ken


"Here is a blow by blow on changing a belt on a X-
7,10,300,700,1000,2000...The belt is a PRB FR-16.9. It runs between the
two capstan flywheels and the motor.

Tools needed are a #2 Phillips screwdriver and a pair of long crochet
hooks or the equivalent.

Find a place that is big (like a table) and soft (like several layers of
blanket) and available for a while. Find a bowl or dish or something to
collect screws and small parts.

1) Lay the deck on its face with the bottom in your gut.

2) Remove the box (if it has one) and remove the plastic cabinet.

3) Remove the two screws holding the rear circuit boards. These screws
go into each of the reel motors. Move the circuit board upwards away
from your gut about 4 inches. You may have to cut some tywraps to do this.

4) Locate the two flywheels and the metal thrust plate going between
them with the capstan motor mounted. It is held on with 6 screws, one in
each corner, one in the middle of the bottom (nearest you gut) and a
smaller screw on the side going to a little 1/4 inch bracket. Remove all
these screws.

5) lift the motor, plate and all and move it out of the way from the
flywheels. Work it around up and under all those wires. If you need more
room, you can unplug the motor servo board and take the plate/motor
subassembly and drop it on the floor. Be careful of the the two little
grease cups getting gookie on the wife's favorite blanket.

6) remove the old belt, clean up the flywheels and capstan motor pulley
using what ever organic cleaner you have (Xylene, Ronsonal, Alcohol,
etc.) just don't get any other than on the dirty metal parts.

7) Put the new belt around the flywheels. Work it up to the top of the
flywheel so it is just even with the upper edge of the wheel.

8) lower the motor plate into the deck and with the aid of mirrors and
magic, hook the lower passing of the belt from the bottom (gut end) on
the motor pulley. This part is not easy as the whole operation is in the
blind and the belt will be tight. Get the plate to match the mounting
screw holes and the switch plate tabs (away from your gut are the two
switches for the
timer on a bracket with tabs that fits in a slot on the motor plate).
get the plate to engage the posts for the screws that have little
holding flanges and using your third hand insert the plate
screw for the bottom (gut) middle plate mounting screw. Use the hooks
fingers and whatever
to work the belt to the center of the motor pulley and be sure that all
is rotating freely.

9) put the rest of the screws on the plate, put the circuit board back
and put the deck back on it's bottom.

10) plug it in, turn it on and raise the right tension arm. The capstan
should be turning. Check the belt position by looking in from the side
and be sure it is running smoothly.

11) reverse the deck and check that the belt moves on the capstan
flywheels to either the inside or outside, opposite what it was.

12) put it all back together.
Ken Kirkpatrick
Cat Ultimate preamp, Basis Debut Vacuum, Basis Vector tonearm, Urishi,Walker motor drive, Cat JL-1 amps, Sony XA9000Es SACD, Wadia 860,Yamaha CT 7000, Nak Dragon, RX 505, 2 REL Stentor II's, Sonus Faber Amati's, Cardas Golden Cross and Siltec cables, Otari MX 5050 B III, Teac X2000R

Offline ironbut

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Re: Teac X-2000r & 1000r Questions:New Member
« Reply #5 on: July 14, 2009, 10:28:43 AM »
Nice going Ken. I really need to go through and put specific repairs like this in a sticky. That way folks don't have to ask over and over when the post gets buried.
steve koto
 Sony scd 777es(R. Kern mods)> Vpi Aires>Dynavector XX-2mkll>Bent mu>CAT ultimate>CJ premeir 140>Magnepan 1.6qr(Jensen xover)Headphone Eddie Current Zana Deux>AT ad2000,HD800 ,Metric Halo ULN-2 (battery powered),
 HE Audio Jades

Offline Tim

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Re: Teac X-2000r & 1000r Questions:New Member
« Reply #6 on: July 14, 2009, 06:25:46 PM »
FYI, the PRB belt mentioned above in the replacement instructions is not remotely suitable for use as capstan drive belt.  Using it will induce huge amounts of wow & flutter into the transport. W&F spec will be worse than a cheap cassette deck.  It's due to the construction method: capstan drive belts need to be very uniform dimensionally to minimise W&F and the only way to achieve this is using a precision grinding method to shape/construct the belt. PRB  uses a simple cutting method to construct their belts.  Only use the original Teac belt for replacement. 

Also, another very common defect on the 1000R and 2000R: sticky or frozen pinch roller arm bearings due to dried grease.  The pinch rollers should move up & down (by hand) very freely.  It's an easy fix to remove the arms and clean out the old grease.

Tim 
« Last Edit: July 14, 2009, 10:29:20 PM by timlein »
Tim Leinbaugh
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Offline Kenkirk

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Re: Teac X-2000r & 1000r Questions:New Member
« Reply #7 on: July 16, 2009, 09:40:15 AM »
I agree about the belt, but I have always been able to get the Teac belt. But the PBR would be better than nothing. 

Here is a post from Wbob on the pinch roller trouble.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The folowing procedure usually fixes the pokey pinch problem:

To "fix" the pinch roller's failure to close it is necessary to
lubricate the pinch roller arm shaft. You will need the following
tools: Set of metric hex wrenches, #1 Phillips screwdriver, tweezers,
oil in a small oil dispenser like a hypodermic needle. The oil I
recommend is Rislone, a quart (enough for 10,000 decks) is around
$4.00 at the auto store.

Remove the head cover. Remove the two pinch rollers, be careful to
save the washers. There is a thick and a thin washer for each pinch.
Remove the plastic piece around the head block it is held by two
Phillips screws. Remove the cross beam between the pinch roller
frames. Two phillips screws. One at a time, remove the pinch roller
frame by pulling straight up.
It may be hard to remove, but keep working it back and forth. Once
removed, clean the shafts and oil them with the rislone.
When reinserting the part be sure the washer is under the arm and it
all lines up on the lifter shaft.It should seat clear down on the
shaft. test that the lifters move when you move the pinch roller arm.
Do the other one the same way. Put it back together. The pinch roller
washers, the thin one goes under the pinch and the thick one on last.
The pinch should now be very fast. If it is still slow, some grease
may have hardened somewhere in the lifter assembly. search for it and
oil it with Rislone. You don't need grease.
Ken Kirkpatrick
Cat Ultimate preamp, Basis Debut Vacuum, Basis Vector tonearm, Urishi,Walker motor drive, Cat JL-1 amps, Sony XA9000Es SACD, Wadia 860,Yamaha CT 7000, Nak Dragon, RX 505, 2 REL Stentor II's, Sonus Faber Amati's, Cardas Golden Cross and Siltec cables, Otari MX 5050 B III, Teac X2000R

Offline Kenkirk

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Re: Teac X-2000r & 1000r Questions:New Member
« Reply #8 on: July 16, 2009, 09:45:36 AM »
Well let me just post all of the stuff I saved from Wbob over the years.  He was a very helpful man and loved Teacs. He also helped me chase down a bad resistor in the power supply for my Teac X2000r. He no longer works on the decks due to health problems.

Ken

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

To "fix" the pinch roller's failure to close it is necessary
to lubricate the pinch roller arm shaft. You will need the
following tools:

Set of metric hex wrenches,
#1 Phillips screwdriver,
tweezers,
oil in a small oil dispenser like a hypodermic needle. The oil I
recommend is Rislone, a quart (enough for 10,000 decks) is around
$4.00 at the auto store.

Lay the deck on its back with the bottom in your gut.

Remove the head cover
Remove the two pinch rollers, be careful to save the
washers. There is a thick and a thin washer for each pinch.
Remove the plastic piece around the head block it is held by
two Phillips screws.
Remove the cross beam between the pinch roller frames. Two
Phillips screws.
One at a time, remove the pinch roller frame by pulling
straight up.
It may be hard to remove, but keep working it back and
forth.
Once removed, clean the shafts and oil them with the
rislone.
When reinserting the part be sure the washer is under the
lifter arm and it all lines up on the lifter shaft.
It should seat clear down on the shaft. test that the
lifters move when you move the pinch roller arm.
Do the other one the same way.
Put it back together
The pinch roller washers, the thin one goes under the pinch
and the thick one on last.
The pinch should now be very fast.
If it is still slow, some grease may have hardened somewhere
in the lifter assembly. search for it and oil it with
rislone. You don't need grease.


__________________________________________________ ________


X-3R (Tascam 22-2, 22-4 and Radio shack 3000) tutorial on
belts...I am doing this from memory and its been a month or so
since I did an X-3 (or two).

Remove the rear plastic. Remove the surround sheet metal, remove
the knobs. Remove the head cover (pull carefully and evenly).
Remove the pinch roller (save the two washers). . Remove the
tension wheels (save the two washers on each side). Remove the
post the head cover was on, the one with the slot. Remove the
phillips screw on the brown plastic head surround. remove the hex
screws on the front panel. remove the front panel. Start cleaning
the mess of the old belt.

There are two ways of getting the new belt in there. I don't know
which is easier. One is to remove the thrust plate from the rear
of the capstan flywheel and work the belt into the front around
the gap between the flywheel and the sheet metal Once the belt is
all in the front it can be strung between the flywheel and the motor.

The other is to remove the capstan plate screws in the front and
move the capstan flywheel up far enough to get the belt under it
and around the flywheel. Then string it on the motor. I have done
both ways and neither is "fun".

You can put the wheels back on without the front panel and run
tape to see how it is all working.

When you put the panel back be sure that it is clear down and not
rocking at all before you tighten anything. There are a lot of
things poking thru holes and stuff that should be out of the way
(like the head wires) and the panel should rest on a even ground.

On the capstan and the tension rollers, there are two washers
each, one going under the wheel and one over. The lower one should
be 0.25mm and the upper 0.5mm thick. They are fibre and somewhat
hard to find if they are lost. A drop of Rislone on each shaft
will make for years of oilyness.

I recommend using Xylene for cleaning the belt mess (and the
heads) but most any solvent seems to work. Just don't get it on
any plastic or rubber parts.

__________________________________________________ __________


Yes. There is a rather simple adjustment to set the servo. I will
outline it here as some other may wonder how to set their 1000/2000s
servo systems.

First let me preface that this is a crude method and the proper method
requires the use of a Tentelometer, a $500 tool used by service shops.
These things show up on ebay from time to time and since no one ever
heard of them, they go fairly cheap (under $100).

Anyway, here is the dirty drill:

Remove the wood case
Remove the plastic case
set the deck on its bottom and thread in a tape you can afford to lose
(in case the servo goes nutso)
Locate the circuit board on the back that is on the left as viewed from
the front. (confused?..it's the big one)
Find five potentiometers (little screwdriver adjustable resistors)
visible from the left side of the deck looking in at the inside of this
circuit board. There should be two very near the top corner, two
side-by-side down about 3 inches and one by itself just below the middle.
The two at the top control the reel servo for play, one control for each
direction, the two side-by-side are for FF and RW and the one by itself
is for sped, but don't mess with that unless you have a scope attached
to the nearby test point, then you set it for 0.7 msec during FF/RW. It
can be made to go very fast and can also be made to go extremely fast
and not ever stop (runaway) so don't mess with this unless you have the
scope attached.

Now the trick. Get the tape running in FF and adjust one of the
side-by-side pots. you will see one of the little tension arms move up
or down. If it doesn't tweak on the other side-by-side pot. Set the pot
so the arm is in line with the counter wheel (the wheel with the rubber
on it and the inertial wheel (the wheel on the other side). Now go to RW
and do the same thing with the other side-by-side pot and the other
tension arm. When things are OK, all four silver wheels should be in a
line.

You can do the same thing in Play mode, using the upper two pots, one
for each direction, again, when you are done all four rolley wheels
should be in a line.

If the bad arm don't respond properly, then the next thing to look at is
the cam in the optical sensor for that tension arm. It may need a tweak,
but now you are getting into dangerous waters.


----------------------------------------------
The folowing procedure usually fixes the pokey pinch problem:

To "fix" the pinch roller's failure to close it is necessary to
lubricate the pinch roller arm shaft. You will need the following
tools: Set of metric hex wrenches, #1 Phillips screwdriver, tweezers,
oil in a small oil dispenser like a hypodermic needle. The oil I
recommend is Rislone, a quart (enough for 10,000 decks) is around
$4.00 at the auto store.

Remove the head cover. Remove the two pinch rollers, be careful to
save the washers. There is a thick and a thin washer for each pinch.
Remove the plastic piece around the head block it is held by two
Phillips screws. Remove the cross beam between the pinch roller
frames. Two phillips screws. One at a time, remove the pinch roller
frame by pulling straight up.
It may be hard to remove, but keep working it back and forth. Once
removed, clean the shafts and oil them with the rislone.
When reinserting the part be sure the washer is under the arm and it
all lines up on the lifter shaft.It should seat clear down on the
shaft. test that the lifters move when you move the pinch roller arm.
Do the other one the same way. Put it back together. The pinch roller
washers, the thin one goes under the pinch and the thick one on last.
The pinch should now be very fast. If it is still slow, some grease
may have hardened somewhere in the lifter assembly. search for it and
oil it with Rislone. You don't need grease.

__________________________________________________ _____________

"Here is a blow by blow on changing a belt on a X-
7,10,300,700,1000,2000...The belt is a PRB FR-16.9. It runs between the
two capstan flywheels and the motor.

Tools needed are a #2 Phillips screwdriver and a pair of long crochet
hooks or the equivalent.

Find a place that is big (like a table) and soft (like several layers of
blanket) and available for a while. Find a bowl or dish or something to
collect screws and small parts.

1) Lay the deck on its face with the bottom in your gut.

2) Remove the box (if it has one) and remove the plastic cabinet.

3) Remove the two screws holding the rear circuit boards. These screws
go into each of the reel motors. Move the circuit board upwards away
from your gut about 4 inches. You may have to cut some tywraps to do this.

4) Locate the two flywheels and the metal thrust plate going between
them with the capstan motor mounted. It is held on with 6 screws, one in
each corner, one in the middle of the bottom (nearest you gut) and a
smaller screw on the side going to a little 1/4 inch bracket. Remove all
these screws.

5) lift the motor, plate and all and move it out of the way from the
flywheels. Work it around up and under all those wires. If you need more
room, you can unplug the motor servo board and take the plate/motor
subassembly and drop it on the floor. Be careful of the the two little
grease cups getting gookie on the wife's favorite blanket.

6) remove the old belt, clean up the flywheels and capstan motor pulley
using what ever organic cleaner you have (Xylene, Ronsonal, Alcohol,
etc.) just don't get any other than on the dirty metal parts.

7) Put the new belt around the flywheels. Work it up to the top of the
flywheel so it is just even with the upper edge of the wheel.

8) lower the motor plate into the deck and with the aid of mirrors and
magic, hook the lower passing of the belt from the bottom (gut end) on
the motor pulley. This part is not easy as the whole operation is in the
blind and the belt will be tight. Get the plate to match the mounting
screw holes and the switch plate tabs (away from your gut are the two
switches for the
timer on a bracket with tabs that fits in a slot on the motor plate).
get the plate to engage the posts for the screws that have little
holding flanges and using your third hand insert the plate
screw for the bottom (gut) middle plate mounting screw. Use the hooks
fingers and whatever
to work the belt to the center of the motor pulley and be sure that all
is rotating freely.

9) put the rest of the screws on the plate, put the circuit board back
and put the deck back on it's bottom.

10) plug it in, turn it on and raise the right tension arm. The capstan
should be turning. Check the belt position by looking in from the side
and be sure it is running smoothly.

11) reverse the deck and check that the belt moves on the capstan
flywheels to either the inside or outside, opposite what it was.

12) put it all back together.
Ken Kirkpatrick
Cat Ultimate preamp, Basis Debut Vacuum, Basis Vector tonearm, Urishi,Walker motor drive, Cat JL-1 amps, Sony XA9000Es SACD, Wadia 860,Yamaha CT 7000, Nak Dragon, RX 505, 2 REL Stentor II's, Sonus Faber Amati's, Cardas Golden Cross and Siltec cables, Otari MX 5050 B III, Teac X2000R

Offline ironbut

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Re: Teac X-2000r & 1000r Questions:New Member
« Reply #9 on: July 16, 2009, 06:23:23 PM »
Nicely done Ken. Thanks for sharing that.

Is the Bob you mentioned the one from Vintage Electronics? He's always been very helpful dealing with Sony's, Teac's, Akai's etc.
He and Rolf at Vintage Texas are always a good try if you're looking for used parts too.
« Last Edit: July 20, 2009, 09:28:11 PM by ironbut »
steve koto
 Sony scd 777es(R. Kern mods)> Vpi Aires>Dynavector XX-2mkll>Bent mu>CAT ultimate>CJ premeir 140>Magnepan 1.6qr(Jensen xover)Headphone Eddie Current Zana Deux>AT ad2000,HD800 ,Metric Halo ULN-2 (battery powered),
 HE Audio Jades

Offline Kenkirk

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Re: Teac X-2000r & 1000r Questions:New Member
« Reply #10 on: July 20, 2009, 03:19:17 PM »
Nicely done Ken. Thanks for share that.

Is the Bob you mentioned the one from Vintage Electronics?

no, I have forgotten his real name, but he hung out and answered a ton of Teac questions on the  reeltoreel yahoo group which I have followed for years.

Ken
Ken Kirkpatrick
Cat Ultimate preamp, Basis Debut Vacuum, Basis Vector tonearm, Urishi,Walker motor drive, Cat JL-1 amps, Sony XA9000Es SACD, Wadia 860,Yamaha CT 7000, Nak Dragon, RX 505, 2 REL Stentor II's, Sonus Faber Amati's, Cardas Golden Cross and Siltec cables, Otari MX 5050 B III, Teac X2000R