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Messages - bobschneider

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1
General Discussion / Re: MX 5050 BII vs MX 5050 BIII
« on: December 24, 2012, 12:13:22 PM »
So you have a BII-2 headblock? I had thought this would likely work but have seen no evidence till now. As for the NAB adapters, I would love to have the twist lock holddowns of a BIII so I could use those Revox aluminum flairs that look sooo coool.

My BIII came with a 3 head 1/2 track only head block, with a dummy head where the 1/4 track playback head would go.  I swapped in a BII 4 head block without any trouble -the headblocks are interchangeable.  I may have also had to change out the headblock cover to accommodate the 1/2 to 1/4 switch - it was a few years ago I did this, so I don't remember all the specifics.

2
Reel to Reel Tape Machines / Re: Athan Roller for Otari 5050
« on: November 03, 2011, 09:26:10 PM »
I didn't have those issues with the pinch roller I bought from Athan for my Otari MX5050 B3-2 a couple of years ago.  I'd get in touch with Athan.

3
Suggestion Box / Re: John Hiatt Bring the Family
« on: October 19, 2011, 08:30:38 AM »
Bring the Family would definately be enough to get me to get off my butt and reup for the third series!

4
Anybody have any ideas on this one?  I suspect the problem is electronic...

If I have a tape threaded up on the machine, and leave it plugged in for a while (but switched OFF), I can then start the machine up and it will be fully functional  (i.e. - capstan starts turning when the machine is switched on, the HIGH/LOW speed switch works, all PLAY/REW/FF functions are fine, etc.).

But, if I **don't** leave a tape threaded up on the machine, and then attempt to start it up,  the capstan doesn't spin, and the machine reverts back to the "...will only [partially] function when in EDIT mode" behavior that I wrote about in my first post.  If I attempt to thread a tape up and play it while the machine is in this state, nothing happens.

I can however, leave the tape threaded up on the machine, turn off the machine and come back a little later (approx. 1/2 hour), and the machine is fully functional again.

It sounds as though having the tape on the machine allows some crucial relay or electronic part to fall into place, which in turn charges something in the transport functions.  Once the reel is taken off the machine, that circuit disengages, and whatever was charged (some caps, perhaps?) dissipates the necessary stored charge over a relatively short period of time.

Any ideas?  Does this sound like a reasonable interpretation?

- Kevin

The right hand tension arm is connected to a switch, to prevent the transport from operating if there's no tape loaded, or loaded improperly.  This is to prevent tape spills, and save wear and tear on the deck.  Try turning the deck on without any tape, and then manually pull up on the right hand (take up side) tension arm.  The capstan should start turning (a handy trick for cleaning the capstan), and you should be able to get the reel motors to begin turning by pressing the transport buttons.  Release the tension arm, and these should all stop.

If that's the way your deck behaves, you have normal function.

5
Tape Project Machines / Re: Otari MX5050 felt pad...
« on: October 29, 2010, 08:36:33 PM »
On my MX5050s it's a ring of white felt.  It absorbs oil, and presumably releases it to the capstan bearing as needed.  I'd think any absorbent felt would work OK here as long as it's the right size.

6
Suggestion Box / Re: Chess Records
« on: August 18, 2010, 04:45:12 PM »
MoFi did a real nice job with Muddy Waters Folk Singer on CD not too long ago, so at least some of the old Chess tapes must be in decent shape.  I would definitely be up for some good blues - my preference would be for some Howlin' Wolf, or Hoodoo Man Blues by Jr. Wells with Buddy Guy(on Delmark, not Chess), but I'm flexible.

7
Events / Re: September 26 - Tentative - TP at Chicago Audio Society
« on: August 18, 2010, 04:38:37 PM »
Have fun in Chicago - late Sept is normally excellent weather, the CSO starts its season that weekend, or you could check out Buddy Guy's new club (or you could do both - they're within walking distance of each other). 

The CAS is a good club - I was an officer at one time while I lived there.  I believe they still meet out in the suburbs, which may or may not be a good thing depending on where you're staying.

8
Reel to Reel Tape Machines / Borbely tape preamp
« on: August 13, 2010, 04:47:49 PM »
After a long time on hold, I've finally finished my project to build a high quality solid state tape preamp.  The basis of my design is a phono preamp kit sold by the well known designer Erno Borbely.  www.borbelyaudio.com.  I used his EB804/419 All JFET MC/MM phono preamp as my starting point.  This is the simplest and least expensive of the RIAA preamps he offers.  I used it because it could be set up for either active or passive EQ, and because I already had one I was using as a phono preamp.  The articles on his website (originally in AudioXpress in 2005) give a lot of explanation of how the preamp works, including the information needed to design either an active or passive EQ version.

Dr. Borbely was extremely helpful in helping me work though what I needed to do.  I bought a pair of surplus silver/ceramic 4P5T rotary switches (genuine Red Army surplus!) off fleaBay, since I wanted to be able to switch between tape and phono.  One switch switches between the 3 pairs of RCA jack inputs on the back panel: MC, MM and Tape Head. One pair of switch poles changes the RCA jacks (with associated input loading), the other pair changes the feedback resistor which changes the gain of the input stage (I ended up with the gain for the head on my Otari MX-5050 close to the MC gain).  The other switch changes the passive EQ network between the two stages of the preamp (a series R and a shunt RC network, except for RIAA which needs a second C shunt in parallel with the RC) - I can switch between IEC 15ips, NAB 15ips, IEC/NAB 7.5ips (those curves are identical), and RIAA.  I could have set it up for old LP curves as well, but all my LPs use the RIAA curve.

I am very pleased with the sound of this, using my Otari MX-5050 with the Tape Project transport mods.  The sound is much clearer and more vivid than the stock playback electronics, which I have extensively upgraded (Burr Brown op amps, modern capacitors including Blackgate bipolars in the coupling positions, etc).  Cymbals sound like metal (I'm listening to Waltz for Debbie as I type).  This is the best sound I've ever had in my system!

Unfortunately, Dr. Borbely is retiring, and shutting down his kit business later this year, so if you want to build one of these you should act soon.  If anyone's interested in building one of these, I'm happy to let you know the values of the parts you need to modify Dr. Borbely's phono preamp kit.  His "starter" phono preamp with the power supply is Euro 380 plus shipping (about $500), the additional caps and resistors might run $50 more, I paid something like $20 for the switches, and the case and RCAs are whatever you want to spend.

9
Great site! First time posting.

I just bought an Otari MX-5050 BII and need to pick up some XLR female to RCA male cables to connect it to my Anthem TLP-1 preamp. I've pretty much always used Monster, but want to try something different this time, such as either Mogami or Canare. So first question: What are other MX-5050 owners using? Second question: Any thoughts on this option from Markertek?

http://www.markertek.com/Cables-Connectors-Adapters/Audio-Cables/RCA-to-XLR-Cables/TecNec-Cables-Connectors/MSC100XJR.xhtml?MSC6XJRRD

Matt

Those are the ones I use with my MX-5050 B3.  I'm happy with them, and with doing business with Markertek.  Just keep in mind that their pricing is per cable, so you need to order two for stereo.  I usually get one black one and one red one.

10
Soz for my description of parts.
So from the parts list.
unless your looking at the otari parts schematics this will be alien speak.

from Otari parts list - Section 4 Reel Assembly

Reel Table Assembly (Part  no. 2) is jammed against the Projector, Reel (part no.4). I think it was shipped spindles down. So that the part Holder, Reel Table (part no.3) has pushed down the shaft that comes out from the motor(part No.6). If I remove the Reel Table Assembly (Part  no. 2) and press play both motors turn ok, so the motor works.

So it seems that if I undo the Alan Key bolts holding the part Holder, Reel Table (part no.3) to the Motor shaft i can pull it out along the shaft again so it's not jammed with the Reel Table Assembly (Part  no. 2) back on .

OK so the left motor feels tight and new actually, it spins very quiet, the right one spins noisy and has a lot of play in the shaft, both clockwise/counter and pulling the shaft out and in, the left is tight very little play, what is an acceptable amount of play in the motors for ok playback and record.


DH

The way you describe the adjustment is exactly how you're supposed to adjust the reel table height.  It sounds like your left motor is fine, and you just need to adjust the reel table and get a new spindle.  I would get a replacement for the right motor, though. 

Parts for these come up all the time on eBay, including some NOS parts from time to time.  If I were in your position, I'd just get a price adjustment from the seller, and get either parts or maybe a parts deck off eBay.

11
Suggestion Box / Re: More Fantasy Please!
« on: March 30, 2010, 05:45:10 PM »
I'd definitely be up for any or all of the Riverside Miles albums

12
Suggestion Box / Zappa
« on: March 30, 2010, 05:43:43 PM »
How about some Zappa?  I believe his widow Gail has the rights to most of his music.  I'd vote for Hot Rats or Overnite Sensation, but any Zappa would make me happy...

13
Service Resources / Re: Revox Service
« on: March 23, 2010, 09:44:54 AM »
I can also reccomend Jack.  He fixed my B77 for me.  Good work, good turnaround.  He's not cheap, but his prices are fair for what he does.

14
Brilliant Corners / Why so much leader on Brilliant Corners?
« on: December 14, 2009, 09:05:48 PM »
I just received my copy of Brilliant Corners today (forwarded from Chicago to Houston), and I have to say I agree with all the raves.  I have this on CD, and know what good music it is, but the sound quality on the tape is just fantastic!  Another home run for the TP guys.

But one thing that struck me as odd was how much blank tape there was after the end of the actual recording, before the leader (i.e., on the outside of the reels when stored tails out).  There must be 10 minutes of blank tape at the end of each reel.  That certainly isn't the case before the start of the tape - that amount of blank tape looks like no more than a minute or two.  And I never noticed so much blank tape on my other TP tapes. 

There must be a reason for this, but I can't for the life of me figure it out.  Can someone enlighten me?

15
Reel to Reel Tape Machines / Re: M5050 II and III differences
« on: December 04, 2009, 08:48:05 PM »
Note that the tape head blocks are interchangeable between the II and III.  So you can put a II head block, with the extra 4 track PB head, into a III, and get the best of both worlds.  That's what I have done on my machine which is now at Bottlehead for the tape path mods.

Otari head blocks come up pretty regularly on eBay.  Or you can add a 4 track BP head to a III block - the mounting space and wiring are already there, you just need to add the head and a switch.

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