Adapters for Otari MX 5050

[jcmusic]

Can someone tell me where to get the proper adapters for my deck?

Jay

[Arnold_Layne]

Are you talking about the XLR connections?
Due to the fact most of the MX5050 decks run Pin 3 hot XLR's which is not very common, I had cables custom made by Redco Audio.

Contact info:

Chris Stubbs
Redco Audio
1701 Stratford Ave
Stratford, CT 06615
P800-572-7280 x104
P203-502-7600 x104
F203-502-7610
[email protected]


Steve

[rbwtapeinterlink-Bob]

On the other hand, if you are talking about NAB HUBS they can be obtained from www.audioproz.com
Check out Vince there and he should be able to assist you. Have a great day sir.

Bob W.

[docb]

I'd suggest grabbing those BII style NAB adapters before they dry up. I was meeting with the good folks from Otari earlier this week, and Mitch Gibney says those adapters that slide over the BII post type spindle are no longer available from Otari. There is an alternative - Otari can sell you the new BIII style turntables with the more typical little plastic twist lock. That could be used with Darklabs Revox style NAB adapters and others. Speaking of Darklabs adapters, Jeff Jacobs of J-corder tells me he just received his first shipment and has all sorts of colors in stock. We're also working on a replacement for the rubber hub spacers that go behind NAB adapters on the Technics machines. After playing with maybe 20 machines now I can tell you that those little suckers make quite a difference in how the tape packs on a metal reel. It has to do with the angle of the tape coming off the reel and onto the tension arm roller, and looking at the very slight angles involved I'm sure the engineering solution would have something to do with vector math and angular momentum. Perfectly straight  geometry isn't necessarily the best for moving tape.

[Ben]

Well I need the "Newbie Kit".  REELS, HUBS & Cables  :)
Is there any more news on the NAB hub adaptors?
I am going to check with audioproz for some used ones, but
how well do the dual adaptors work.
Is there anymore News on the TP reels for sale?
Ben.

[jcmusic]

Ben,
Can you be a little more specific?

Jay

[ironbut]

As far as the adapter cables go (Otari pin configuration> RCA) since you obviously know your way around a soldering iron you could just make your own. Paul Stubblebine was kind enough to provide us with the part numbers and source for the wire and XLR connectors that he likes. The cables are Mogami 2549 and the connectors are Switchcraft A3f/A3M (female or male, usually one of each on a balanced cable). The pin numbers are on the connectors. On the XLR end, go ahead and connect the two conductors and the shield and on the RCA end (use any RCA you like, I have a love/hate relationship with Eichmann Bullet plugs myself) just connect the two conductors. Paul suggested getting this stuff from Markertek and they're very reasonable. http://www.markertek.com/index.asp
Until the empty Tape Project reels become available, I'd get an everyday aluminum reel (don't buy used aluminum reels, they bend real easily) some blank tape, demagnetizer, and cleaning supplies. You can get all this kind of stuff at US Recording Media. Their shipping is high but if you consolidate an order over $125 (I think) the shippings free. While you're there, be sure to check out the tips and faq's pages before you order. There's some of the best tape care tips on the web there.
http://usrecordingmedia-store.stores.yahoo.net/opreelrectap.html

[Ben]

I was thinking about the problem, of NAB hubs not being made for the
BII and using BIII hubs and a hub adapter. I will be getting the bare deck in about
two weeks, and am looking for all the parts needed to get started playing tapes.
Assuming the deck has no problems and I will not know for sure until it gets here,
I am just looking for hubs now, but I need Reels, some demo/test music
and a XLR male to Female RCA adapters later on.
 

[Ben]

I am not sure if I want to make new cables just yet, I have some here.
I was thinking about making my own adapter but I still need to find
RCA females that are not chassis mount. Thanks for the tips.

[steveidosound]

On the subject of cables vs an active (or transformer) box to convert from XLR pro studio machine line out to typical HiFi gear tape in, make sure of your connections when making (or buying) direct  XLR to RCA cables. When you un-balance the line, the common thing is pin 2 hot, but some are pin 3 hot. Some designs like you to common the "neutral" or signal low balanced side of the line with pin 1 ground, others want you to take the ground of the RCA to ONLY pin 1 or ONLY to the low side of the balanced line. It sometimes depends on whether the tape machine has output transformers (older ones) or op amps for it's balanced line out. And there are various schemes if you are using 2 conductor shielded cable vs. single conductor with a shield. Rane Corp. had some good notes on their website about various balanced to unbalanced and vice-versa cable assemblies. It will not load the tape deck down in the sense that the input impedance of most unbalanced inputs is way higher than 600 ohms. A greater concern is that the signal will be too "hot" for a typical line input, and overload it causing distortion on peaks. Many recorders have output level controls and you can use them to drop the level to that which is typical of your other sources.
Consumer unbalanced "line level" varies quite a bit but is considered to be in the ballpark of 350mV to perhaps 750mV across 10,000 ohms
 - around half a volt give or take.

As for the Otari NAB hub adaptors, the older machines (not just Otari) lacking the pull and turn spindle locks on the small hub spindle, could still be used with non-clamp type NAB hub adaptors with an appropriate collet type clamp to hold them tight. That is what is built into the Otari adaptors. Whatever it is, must be tight enough to prevent the NAB hub adaptor from working its way loose on the shaft and slipping or worse yet, allowing the reel to become loose. Some NAB hub adaptors depend on the shaft tension to hold the adapter in the reel and pin it against the turntable, while other designs clamp the reel firmly with their own spring tension and have a backing flange, relying on the small shaft hold down only to hold the hub adaptor engaged on the drive of the spindle and keep the whole NAB reel/hub adaptor from coming loose. 

[Ben]

umm Steve what equipment do you listen to?
I have my Otari in today and I found the spindles? on the motors seem to be
adjusted too deep and they don't turn due to friction. While I am off to find some
allen keys, has anybody else ran into this problem?

[ironbut]

Hi Ben, sounds like you got your machine. Just to be sure you know, the brakes are engaged unless the machine is in play/fast forward or rewind. There's also a tape sensor of some type (either an arm the tape would move or an optical sensor that needs to be blocked by the tape) for any of these functions to work (and disengage the brakes). It is possible that the reel tables need adjusting but it's probably more likely that the reel bearings need a cleaning and lube. The adjustment of the reel table is important to keep the tape from rubbing on on the reel flanges so I wouldn't mess with it unless you're pretty sure that's the problem.

[Ben]

Squeak Squeak Squeak. Need I say More.
It looks like the spindles are pressed right against the drive motors themselves
just because of years of pressing reels on the spindle.  Once I get the spindles
moved away from the motor I will have a better idea of the motor bearings.
If they are gone, that is major pain finding a new pair of motors. Fairly easy to replace
since commercial equipment is built right. I still would like a spare deck any how
so I can make mods to the deck, and not having to worry about damaging my main
machine.Thanks again.

[steveidosound]

Could it be a shipping thing - that is the spindles took some end shock from improper packing and the tables moved on the shafts?
In any case, as long as the motors are not physically damaged and the tables can be set to the right height so the tape winds between straight reel flanges without touching either side, you're good.

As to your other question, compared to the rest of the audiophiles on here I listen to absolute junk, so I added that phrase to the bottom of my profile where the rest of you put your mega $$$ or home hand designed and tweaked equipment.

Just think 70s -80s mid-fi with a few odd twists. I am a collector more than an audiophile. I can listen to about every recorded format from 78s through wire to most reel formats, cassette and 8 track, all the common tape and disc quad fromats from the 70s up through modern digital HD stuff.
If you really need to know more I will tell you in an email or PM.
 

[Ben]

The spindles are well jammed against the motor. I took off the
metal reel spacers, and am using a  cheap plastic reel 5"? and tape
to test the deck. All seems to work,barring the the drive system
that has too much friction to work correctly and you can hear the whine
from the motor shaft rather than the frame where a reel might rub.
My only real concern is what way to loosen the hex-nuts? on the shaft:
clockwise or counter clock wise once pick up some hex keys. If I can't losen
them then I have a major problem.
PS: Now it looks like the tape threading is the problem with the whine.
That is all I am doing tonight.