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Messages - AZ_Gary

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Waltz for Debby / Re: Waltz for Debby TP 008
« on: January 10, 2009, 12:16:34 AM »
I spoke with Eileen this noon and she said the studio was doing a major effort over the weekend to produce copies of TP008. HOORAY!!!!


Waltz for Debby / Re: Waltz for Debby TP 008
« on: January 08, 2009, 06:37:52 PM »
Has anyone actually received a TP008? I'm a selective subscriber and haven't received it. Some of the chatter here would lead me to believe some of you have received the tape. What's the scoop?


Thanks, Doc. That is exactly the information I need.


Those of us that have modified our machines to bypass the internal reproducer amplifiers and take the tape-head output directly to an external amplifier are faced with a real challenge in regards to alignment. In my case I have modified both a RS-1506 and a MX-5050BII-2 to feed into a Seduction modified for NAB and IEC equalization.

Learning about tape deck maintenance is enough without the added problems. I'm not talking about demagnetization, cleaning and lubrication or tension adjustments. It would appear that we are limited to maintenance of the physical head alignment. Without the VU meters most alignment procedures for reproducer and record alignment don't seem possible. I was able to do an azimuth alignment of the playback heads using a scope connected to the Seduction outputs. A key adjustment seems to be setting the SRL level upon which successive adjustments depend. Can any of the gurus here give some pointers on how we can maximize our alignment and adjustments on these modified machines?


Tape Project Albums - general / Add your location
« on: August 23, 2008, 06:41:00 PM »
it might help you locate nearby assistance.


Reel to Reel Tape Machines / Re: RS-15xx alternative hubs
« on: July 31, 2008, 12:17:23 AM »
Can someone provide more information about these hubs? How are they functionally different from standard hubs? Do they work on any R2R? Will they work on an Otari?

When I first fired it up, the gain was not high. I think it was just because I had just turned on the Seduction. I had the line stage volume cranked up a bit and could hear some hum at the speakers. I tested by just touching the ground wire to the terminal and it made a noticable difference, so I connected the ground wire. The hum level was not terribly high at the beginning. If you are getting a lot of hum, I would look at other possible causes. After an hour of play, remember this is also a new Seduction, I had very acceptable gain and no discernible hum.

Factors to consider 1) my speakers are only 94dB at 1 watt/ 1 meter 2) I'm just running a low power 2A3 Paramour I and 3) I'm 67 years old and may miss low level hum or hiss.

I'm not sure what you mean by cheater plug at the head out wiring. That is the place (B9 pins 2 and 3) that I grounded to the internal ground connection. Those leads run through the shielded wire and out to the XLR where they are strapped to the low side of the balanced output connector.


I performed these mods to my machine and am very happy with the results. Doc, if you want to edit this for proper terminology, especially things like "terminal blocks", be my guest, I'm not an engineer.

This Otari is connected to the Seduction I recently built with the NAB/IEC equalization at the following link:

Otari MX-5050-BII-2 tape head output modification:

These instructions assume the reader has the service manual for the Otari. My copy is Edition 8 dated October 1987.

Referring to the view in Figure 5-1 on page 5-2 lay the unit on its back, remove eight screws to remove the bottom plate and pull down the bottom panel providing access to the amplifier board, A10620B foldout, following page 10-1.

Using the circuit board diagram PB-16EB on page 8-3, unplug terminal blocks 9, 13 and 14. They are numbered on the blocks. The pin numbers are located on the board next to the PCB-mounted male connectors. Note these numbers. Loosen the screw that attaches a ground wire at at the right end of the chassis. Block 9 is the channel 1 and channel 2 connections from the heads. Pin 4 is channel 1, pin 1 is channel 2, pins 2 and 3 are grounds. Block 13 is the harness connecting the line output to the channel 1 XLR and block 14 is for channel 2.

Prepare two lengths of Doc's STP. I just cut the excess from my Seduction kit in half yielding two 6 inch lengths. Remove the outside jacket and foil for a length of ? inch on one end and trim the red and black leads 3/8 inch on one end. On the other end, remove about 1 ? inches from the outer jacket and foil. Trim the red and black leads, leaving all but 3/8 inch bare.

Wrap the drain wire of the long end tightly around the black lead two times. You can solder it if you like, I didn't.

Just push the leads of the short end into blocks 13 and 14, the wire diameter is a good match for the block connector and should hold it well. The red wire of one goes into pin hole 2, the black to 1 and the drain to 3. The other end of the red wire going block 13 is attached to pin 4 block 9 and the black to pin 3. The red wire from block 14 is attached to pin 1 of block 9 and the black to 2. The drain wire of one is wrapped twice around the drain wire of the other and soldered. Trim the excess from the end you wrapped. Put a ?j? hook in the remaining drain wire and attach it to the previously loosened ground wire connection. It will work best of looped under the existing ground wire connector. Note that the Block 13 and 14 numbers DO NOT correspond to the XLR pin numbers. Aside from that Otari has done an excellent job of part identification.

The above assumes you have wired your XLR connectors for unbalanced single conductor interconnects as shown in Figure 2-4 on page 2-8.

I also connected a length of lamp cord between the ground posts of the Otari and the Seduction.

This procedure should produce a hum-free connection. My seduction has ample gain and is hum-free at the listening position. I may add the Hammond box as additional shielding on the Seduction.

I hope this will be helpful for anyone using the Otari. I like it because I can revert to the original configuration in about 15 minutes with no visible scars.


Suggestion Box / Re: Art Pepper Meets the Rhythm Section
« on: April 17, 2008, 06:03:05 PM »
Some forum software has a poll feature. Don't know if this one does or not. That might be away to vote without developing additional functionality.


Reel to Reel Tape Machines / Great news on the Otari
« on: March 10, 2008, 04:17:59 PM »

I have two MX-5050BII-2s. I'm currently running my 1506 off the modified Seduction and am ready to modify my Otaris. I'm following this one closely.


Reel to Reel Tape Machines / Re: Otari MX5050BII2
« on: February 28, 2008, 10:44:13 PM »
Congratulations, you bought a fine tape deck. Step one is to get a complete manual. It will contain simple diagrams to wire your own interconnects using the correct XLR pinouts. They are different on the Otari, so you need to follow the directions.


Tape Project Albums - general / Re: 2008 Tapes
« on: February 25, 2008, 06:36:29 PM »
Thanks, Doc.


Tape Project Albums - general / 2008 Tapes
« on: February 25, 2008, 05:58:34 PM »

My TP-004 arrived today. I know we have a way to go to complete the current series ... but, it's never too early to start planning. Do you have any projections for when this series will complete, when the next series will be announced, when you will start accepting subscriptions for the next series and most important pricing and payment schedule information. I just want a lot of lead time to get ready.


Tape Tech / Re: Bottlehead Seduction question
« on: January 16, 2008, 06:26:20 PM »
I'm not Doc, but I have done it. Piece of cake. Just use two toggle switches.


Tape Project Machines / Re: Technics RS 1500 & 1506
« on: January 07, 2008, 11:51:52 PM »
The 1500 has 2 track play and record plus 4 track playback. The 1506 has 4 track play and record plus 2 track playback. It is my understanding that this is the only difference.


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