Messages

1

General Discussion / Re: Jazz on the Tube

« on: October 13, 2009, 09:08:24 AM »

Thanks!

Brian

2

Reel to Reel Tape Machines / Re: Crusty C37

« on: October 05, 2009, 10:57:34 AM »

Here's another fine looking example - but expensive:

http://cgi.ebay.com/STUDER-REEL-TO-REEL-TAPE-RECORDER-C37-TUBE-TYPE_W0QQitemZ290355639734QQcmdZViewItemQQptZVintage_Electronics_R2?hash=item439a8b75b6&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

Win the lottery, buy this one, keep the pineapple for parts?

Brian

3

Reel to Reel Tape Machines / Re: Lyrec FRED portable editing deck.

« on: September 29, 2009, 09:46:36 PM »

A year or so ago a group in Denmark put up a site promising to offer service, manuals, and parts for all the Lyrec machines - but over a year later they haven't done anything to the site and have failed to answer any of my emails. 

Oops - spoke too soon.  I just noticed they have changed the Lyrec website and added:

"Repair shops etc. can now acquire direct links to service manuals and parts lists.  Contact us on [email protected]"

Maybe there is still hope?

Brian

4

Reel to Reel Tape Machines / Re: Lyrec FRED portable editing deck.

« on: September 19, 2009, 01:36:33 PM »

I know the temptation on the Frida. There were a couple up on eBay earlier this month but I'm concerned about parts and service.  A year or so ago a group in Denmark put up a site promising to offer service, manuals, and parts for all the Lyrec machines - but over a year later they haven't done anything to the site and have failed to answer any of my emails.  At least with an Otari or Ampex or Studer or Nagra I know where I can get parts and service.  (I'm not sure whether that means I am a coward or just indicative of the number of "boat anchors" I already have lying around the basement!)
Have a good weekend.
Brian

P.S.  Just sent the manual as a reply to your email.

5

Reel to Reel Tape Machines / Re: Lyrec FRED portable editing deck.

« on: September 19, 2009, 09:37:31 AM »

I also have a Fred for purposes similar to yours.  I believe you will find the primary problem you will confront in upgrading a Fred for high quality playback is in tape transport wow and flutter.  The Lyrec manual cautions that, while a Fred is fine for editing, it does not have the quality transport mechanism of the Frieda or other top-of-the-line Lyrec machines.  If you need a manual for your Fred, let me know.  Another Forum member emailed me a copy of his - and I'd be happy to help you also.  Here's the thread, which also had some other good info on Lyrecs.  Good luck with your project.
Brian D.

P.S. Welcome to the group!

6

General Discussion / Re: Source for 6 screw plastic reel hub for 1/4" tape?

« on: September 05, 2009, 11:18:55 AM »

Thanks Steve, I'll give it a try.

Have a great Holiday weekend

Brian

7

Reel to Reel Tape Machines / Re: Two Simple Questions for Nagra T Audio Owners

« on: September 05, 2009, 10:07:27 AM »

Rather than share IDs here (and perhaps bring down the wrath of eBay on Doc, Steve and the boys) we might simply have an area to post "There's an XX on eBay and I'm thinking about bidding on it".  If someone else is interested they can contact the poster via PM for whetever purpose.  If anyone ever complains, you are just helping eBay by advertising their auction.  Just a thought.

Brian

8

General Discussion / Re: Source for 6 screw plastic reel hub for 1/4" tape?

« on: September 05, 2009, 09:50:57 AM »

Hi Ki,

At one time I was given a bunch of 1" reels held together with 6 screws, which I didn't need.  At least for these (I think they were BASF), the three hole center plastic lined up fine with three of the holes and the three "empty"  ones didn't look that bad and it worked great. 
You probably have already tried it, but thought I'd mention it just in case. 
I've been thinking of trying something like that to solve my need for a 12" take-up for my Lyrec.  Good luck.

Brian

9

Raw Tape / Re: how many times can you record on the same tape?

« on: September 03, 2009, 03:47:53 PM »

Hi Ki

Probably the expert on tape head/guide degaussing was R.B. Annis who's company still makes their excellent "Handi-Mag".  His instructions say you can "wiggle" the Handi-mag a bit when it is at its closest to the head or guide (but not touching it) but that the wiggle is optional - it is the slow removal of the magnetic field that does all the degaussing.  This is done to each part in the tape path individually (since, as you correctly point out, you want to move the degausser about 3' away from the head/guide - it would be impossible to do the entire tape path in one continuous degaussing operation). You don't have to turn the Handi-mag off and on between each head/guide, just move it at least 3' up and away from the head/guide and then slowly move it back into proximity with the next metal item in the tape path.  Don't forget to also do capstans and their idler wheels and the dash pots.  Sony's spiral motion would also be optional - but could be harmful if it it ended up increasing the speed of the degausser moving away from the head/guide.  If you want to satisfy yourself empirically that each item is magnetically neutral, Annis also markets a magnetometer for that purpose. It is included in the Handi-Kits or can be purchased separately.  The Handi-mag by itself goes for for around $75 and the kit with the magnetometer and accessories goes for around $150.  I have seen them on eBay - but always closing for about the same price.  I wouldn't by a used magnetometer - too delicate.  Here's a link to the Annis site:

http://www.rbannis.com/products/handmags.html

Brian

10

Raw Tape / Re: how many times can you record on the same tape?

« on: August 30, 2009, 10:41:19 PM »

This post is pertaining to a common problem with improper use of a bulk eraser where audible thumps are left which effect the re-recording. The poster is Jay McKnight.

"I've never been sure exactly what causes the thumps: Is it the
residual magnetization from the erasing field itself, as you imply?
Or is it that the earth's field is a "dc" signal that is "biased" by
the erasing field? If this is the case, it would seem that there would
be an optimum orientation for the eraser coil, to minimize the thump.

I've heard a couple of different explanations of "thumps" but all seem to agree with Jay that it is residual magnetism from the degaussing field itself - they just differ on the the cause.  One is it is because the tape was rotated too fast, another says it was rotated at an uneven velocity, another that one of the two coils in the degausser was blown, and yet another says the degausser was turned off before the tape was out of the field and what you are hearing is the transient pulse of the collapsing field.  My personal favorite is this last one - turning off the degausser too soon.  I am positive it is not uneven rotation, since this produces a "swishing" sound (sometimes mistaken for a problem with the recorder).  Too fast rotation usually only produces incomplete erasing. 

In my step-by-step I should have mentioned that this was our technique for the old Scotch red oxide, low signal level tape.  For modern tape that is really holding a hot signal you should rotate much slower - about 2 rpm and, after degaussing one "side", you should flip the tape over and repeat the process for the other "side - but reversing the direction of rotation.  With this technique it is possible to reduce noise even below that left by a good erase head with properly adjusted bias.  I once ran a test in my studio comparing noise levels from brand new unused stock and the same stock bulk erased prior to its first recording cycle.  The bulk degaussed virgin tape had noise about 4 db lower than that of the factory new tape. 

e> An eraser using a frequency higher than 60 Hz would allow you to move the tape faster."

Yes, absolutely.  Some of the Hollywood studios used to use 400 Hz aircraft power supplies to power their degaussers.  Since tape recorder bias is in the 150 KHz to 180 KHz range, there isn't any limit to how high you theoretically could go (avoiding "microwaving" your tape would probably be a good idea!)

Through the magic of our modern social networks, here's a video of someone erasing a 10.5" 1/2" reel of tape;

http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&VideoID=3629317

The degausser technique is OK but the degausser shown is designed for 7" reels maximum - not 10.5" and definitely not 10.5" of 1/2" tape.  Also, a degausser has two separate coils in it and is built so that, if you're spinning the tape on the spindle, the tape is always moving at a right angle to the flux fields.  If you're going to spin it without a variac, or use a single coil unit like the one shown, or manually move the tape into the field - you should find out how the degaussers coils are situated inside the case so you can move the tape into and out of the fields at a right angle to their flux lines. 

And again, I definitely recommend spending the $10-$20 extra for a variac (also known as a powerstat or autotransformer).

Hope some of this helps. 
Brian

11

Raw Tape / Re: how many times can you record on the same tape?

« on: August 23, 2009, 11:23:00 AM »

I used to work in a reel-to-reel duplicating facility "loaning" radio programs to subscribing stations (boy, I just dated myself!).  We would reuse our 7" reels 25 times - not because of the oxide "wearing out" but because of physical damage to tape edges by the equipment our member stations "sort of" maintained.

Each tape was degaussed on its return using a unit similar to this one, currently on eBay (I've seen similar ones by Magnetech or Ampex going for $10 - $200)

http://cgi.ebay.com/Comprehensive-Video-Supply-CVC-2500-Tape-Degausser-NR_W0QQitemZ200375864410QQcmdZViewItemQQptZVintage_Electronics_R2?hash=item2ea7550c5a&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

If the unit "buzzes" when turned on, the only thing you have to worry about is whether both of the coils in the unit are working or just one - drop a penny onto each corner of the unit and look for equal vibrating. 

You should probably have a variac or similar variable transformer to fade up and down the degausser - it is the slow removal of the magnetic field that actually does the erasing.  Technique is:

1.  Turn on degausser with variac at zero.
2.  Put reel onto the spindle in the center of the degausser.
3.  Start spinning reel on the spindle (about 33 rpm should do)
4.  Slowly fade up variac to full power - over about 2 seconds.
5.  Hold degausser at full power for a second or two.
6.  Slowly fade down variac to zero - in about 4-5 seconds.
7.  Remove tape reel.
8.  Repeat with next reel.
9.  Do this for 8 hours while reading Playboy magazine and you'll experience my first real job.

Variac's are also available on eBay for $10 - $100.  Make sure voltage and max. current match those of the degausser (the inexpensive 10 amp variac should work for the kind of degausser in the link above). If you can't afford a variac right now, an alternate technique it to leave the tape off the degausser while you turn it on, slowly move the reel into the magnetic field, spin the reel, and slowly remove the tape from the surface of the degausser.  Ideally, you keep spinning the tape in your hand while moving it into and out of the magnetic field.  Start and end this process with the reel 2-3 feet from the degausser. 

This awkward process has been improved on in later models of degaussers that mount the coils under a conveyor belt.  Turn the unit on, put a reel on one end of the conveyor and, when it comes off the other end of the belt it has been slowly moved through the magnetic field and erased.  These units (by Gartner and others) can also be found on eBay for $500+ or new for $2000+.  I suggest waiting for a $10 Ampex or Magnatech unit and a $10 variac.

Hope this helps.
Brian

P.S.  After my first week of nonstop degaussing my supervisor informed me that I was now completely sterile and could have sex without any worries - fortunately I didn't have a girl friend at the time on which to test his theories (the supervisor had 6 kids of his own so. even as a dumb teenager, I tended to be a bit skeptical of his prognosis).

12

Reel to Reel Tape Machines / Re: Tascam FM22-4 Series

« on: July 11, 2009, 09:41:35 AM »

If by "transferred" you mean to digital - had you considered doing the speed correction via software?  You could save the money you would have to spend modifying your tape deck (and use it to buy another Tape Project release ;-) and the higher speed of the tape deck should result in significantly less wow/flutter and other velocity related artifacts.  Diamond Cut, the company that makes the software that the FBI uses for its audio forensics, makes a much less expensive but still extremely versatile version for under $100 which has the same very precise and easy to use speed correction/pitch change feature.  They offer a free full-featured demo at :

http://www.tracertek.com/dc-seven-audio-restoration-software

There are other freeware programs that offer the same correction feature but most of these offer only around 10% correction.  The DC7 feature was designed for the wider range your speed correction would require.  They also have excellent, live, US based technical support.   (I don't work for or make any money from them but have used their products for about 10 years and am a big fan). 

Good luck with your project.

Brian

13

General Discussion / Happy 4th!

« on: July 04, 2009, 12:03:12 PM »

Happy 4th of July! Let the sound of freedom ring - and special thanks to those veterans and others who helped remove the "distortions" of dictators and "hiss" and "noise" of history.

Brian

14

Prerecorded Tapes / Re: pre-recording speed vs. playing speed...........

« on: June 17, 2009, 11:47:51 AM »

Only if the recordings are of "Alvin and the Chipmunks". :-)

Seriously, if you double the playback speed you double the frequency of the recorded material. 

In other words, to increase quality you must use the higher tape speed when you first record the signal - and then play it back at the identical speed.

Brian

15

Tape Project Machines / Re: Tape Project Modified Machines: is isopropyl OK?

« on: May 18, 2009, 08:47:07 PM »

The university was Michigan State - so now that I am living in Badger country I have "split loyalties".  UW does produce some good sports teams, but MSU also did ok in the NCAA Basketball this year - right up until the end :-(

Brian