Studer A812 and 7" plastic reels

[Dan Robertson]

I'm having trouble playing my prerecorded two track tapes on my recently acquired Studer A812. As you would expect, the Studer is set up for NAB metal flanged reels. Unfortunately, this results in the tape rubbing the bottom flange of most of my plastic 7" prerecorded tape reels. Is there a way to adjust the reel table height to help avoid this? I have gone through the service manual several times, and haven't found any way to do this. My other ideas were either to transfer all my tapes to metal reels, or find some plastic reels with a thin enough flange to work correctly on my machine. The third option would be to use a separate machine for these tapes, but I'd rather not have to do that. What do you Studer experts do when playing your plastic reels?

Thanks for your help!
Dan

[jcmusic]

Dan,
You might try putting shimms on the reel table, that's what I do when I play my pre records. It moves the reel out some should be enough to clear.

Jay

[Dan Robertson]

Jay,

Thanks for the suggestion, but unfortunately, that would actually make things worse, as the bottom flange of the plastic reel is already too high. I've used shims on my Technics for playing metal reels, but it is set up for plastic reel height. What I need is a way to lower the plastic reel.

Dan

[ironbut]

Hi Dan,

Yeah, I was confused too.
Your 812 is set up for just metal reels as most pro machines will be. If you're going to be using the Studer instead of your Technics (poor fellow!) you need to just adjust the reel tables like you had your Technics set up (needing spacers to play metal reels). There's no way around it as far as I know (unless you want to spend a fortune to replace all your plastic reels with metal).

[Tim]

Tascam made 10.5" NAB adaptors with built-in metal spacers.  Here's what it looks like.

http://www.blackswampaudio.com/Inventory/Full_Description.php?recordID=654

With those, you would set your reel-table heights for 7" plastic reels and use the Tascam adaptor for 10.5" reels.  Tascam/Teac also make nice rubber spacer discs for increasing NAB adaptor heights.  I've seen them for sale recently. You can make you own from plastic stock.  Should be around 1.5 mm thick.

[Dan Robertson]

The problem I have is that I can't find a way to adjust the reel tables on the Studer. I'm not sure that this can be done. Does anyone know?

Dan

[ironbut]

Here's an old thread on this very subject (if you couldn't find it with the "search button" I'm not surprised,.. it took me three tries and I remembered it pretty clearly!).

http://www.tapeproject.com/smf/index.php/topic,674.msg3871.html#msg3871

[Tim]

Dan,

Reel table height is adjusted by removing or adding washers from the reel motor shaft.

 1 Try to measure how much (in mm) you need to lower the tables. 
 2  remove reel table (3 screws)
 3  remove brake hub (hex nut in middle).  Be very careful not to bend or touch the inside of brake bands. Push in brake solenoid to release bands from hub. Also don't touch brake hub braking surface. You can also remove the brake band altogether. Just make sure you reinstall it exactly the same way.
 4  You will now see several brass spacing washers on the motor shaft.  Remove washers that equal your previous measurement.
 5  Be very careful not to bend brake bands when reinstalling the hubs.
 6  You will now need to use a spacer pad or the Tascam adaptor (with built-in spacer) when using 10.5" metal reels

[Dan Robertson]

This sounds like just what I needed. Thanks for all your replies! I'll report my results once I get things lined up.

Dan

[ironbut]

Tim, your step by step instructions are absolutely killer!
What an asset to the community you've been. I just wanted to join the folks you've helped out and say thanks!

[Dan Robertson]

Here's my update:

I followed Tim's instructions (thanks again for those, Tim!) and when I removed the reel table, found an aluminum shim between the table and the brake hub. This turned out to be the exact thickness I wanted, which was fortunate because I bent my hex wrench trying to loosen the center hex nut on the hub ( a zinc Snap-On wrench, so I guess I need to get the hardened steel ones ). After reassembly without the shim, I've tried multiple metal and plastic reels. The tape packs a little on the high side of the metal reels, but does not rub the flanges at all. On the plastic reels, it packs low on the hub, and only rubs if the flange is warped. This is all without the use of any spacers. I'm going to assume that this is why the aluminum shim was there, as removing it seems to have put me in exactly the sweet spot I was hoping to find.

Thanks to all for your help!
Dan

[ironbut]

I've never found a problem with the pack being a tiny bit off center with 1/2 track tapes on 10.5" reels. If you use the same tape on the same machine it just stays right there and as long as you don't have any warped metal reels, it's find.
If you should ever want to use one of your "slightly off center" tape on another machine, as long as the tape is tails out you have to rewind it anyway and it's packed where ever the other machine puts it.

Of course it's a whole different story with 1/4 track tapes since you usually have to flip them to hear the "B" side. If it's wound off center the likelyhood of flanging is pretty high.

Speaking of hex wrenches, some of mine are getting a little tired and I need to replace them before they strip a screw head. Have any of you guys used those ball end wrenches? I never have and I was wondering if they might last longer of just flat out be better?

[steveidosound]

I've never found a problem with the pack being a tiny bit off center with 1/2 track tapes on 10.5" reels. If you use the same tape on the same machine it just stays right there and as long as you don't have any warped metal reels, it's find.
If you should ever want to use one of your "slightly off center" tape on another machine, as long as the tape is tails out you have to rewind it anyway and it's packed where ever the other machine puts it.

Of course it's a whole different story with 1/4 track tapes since you usually have to flip them to hear the "B" side. If it's wound off center the likelyhood of flanging is pretty high.

Speaking of hex wrenches, some of mine are getting a little tired and I need to replace them before they strip a screw head. Have any of you guys used those ball end wrenches? I never have and I was wondering if they might last longer of just flat out be better?

I have actually had an issue with a very tight setscrew, on a reel turntable no less, with the ball end type wrench. I would advise breaking them loose with a flat end wrench that fits tightly for maximum contact area with the inside of the setscrew. Ones torqued very tight might strip if the wrench is not fully inserted, or is worn, particularly in the small sizes. The ball end is of advantage where it is hard to get a straight shot at the setscrew - rather like a universal joint or "wobble" on a socket - you can put a small angle on it and still turn the screw.

[ironbut]

Thanks for hex wrench info Steve, that makes sense. I end up using the smallest ones in both sets I have. Lots of tiny trim screws in aluminum threaded holes. It's a real nightmare especially since they're on big money amps that don't belong to me.