Technics RS15XX vs. Otari MX5050 BXXX

[TomR]

As some of you know, I own an RS1520 which I purchased because it could play Tape Project tapes without modifications- yep, I know how poor the electronics are supposed to be, but I wanted to start this way.

The build quality is excellent, but I would say that the tape path is complicated and my fingers have some difficulties getting the tape threaded the first time (or even the second or third time). Since Tape Project tapes are stored tails out and run one sided, this means quite a lot of fussing with a tricky tape path in order to play a single album.  I have never seen an Otari in the flesh, but the pictures seem to show that the tape path looks just like my ReVox A77 - simple and easy to thread.

Questions - do others besides me have difficulties with the tape path of the Technics? Do the benefits of the Technics tape path outweigh the negatives? Is the Otari tape path as easy to use as it looks?

One day I want to modify a machine to optimize Tape Project playback - and I wonder if I am better starting with an Otari than my Technics.

[Ki Choi]

One thing I like about Otari is that you can thread the tape through the tension arms on both supply and take up sides but bypass the headstack by running the tape over the tape headcover.  There are enough clearance for the TP tapes to avoid contact with any of the guides and heads when rewinding before playing valuable tapes.  Out of all of my R2Rs, Studer A810 and Otrai (and maybe A80 although I haven't tried) can do the trick.

The complex tape path on Technics are designed to maximize tape to head contact and for the gentler tape handling - and unfortunately not for ease of threading...  I am sure there are others on this forum who can chime in with better technicl info on RS series tape path.

Ki

[astrotoy]

I have both an Otari MX5050 B3 and a Bottlehead modified Technics 1506. I find the Otari is slightly easier to thread. However, my Technics has had the Bottlehead mods which simplify the tape path - so my Technics is pretty easy thread also. Steve Koto was over last week and he could thread my Technics in about 3 seconds - I was amazed. He said he has had a lot of practice. I don't think his Technics has had the Bottlehead tape path mod.  FWIW, I think the Otari MX5050 B3 electronics are pretty good. My Technics has all the electronics bypassed - so I don't have a comparison with the Otari. The Technics is playback only and feeds a Bottlehead Repro preamp directly from the tape head.  Larry

[astrotoy]

One more thing. The fellow I bought the Otari MX5050 B3 from also had a B2. The hubs on his B2 were very difficult to work with, particularly if you wanted to change from a 10.5" to 7" reel. I tried it and it was the most difficult hub I have dealt with. The B3 came with standard Teac/Tascam hubs and the Doc provided Revox hubs for the Bottlehead Technics. Both are very easy to use. Not sure whether it is easy to switch to a standard hub with the B2.   Larry

[ironbut]

I think that one of the reasons that I can thread a machine quickly (aside from practice) is that I don't worry about the leader at all. So, if I scuff or bend it a little, big deal! That's one of the things I alway do with other tapes is to have plenty of leader attached to the beginning and end. The guys have been great about attaching even more leader to the TP tapes so if the first couple of feet get "bent, spindled or mutilated" to the point that it's sticking out of the reel and making noise, we can just cut it off or splice on some more.

Here's what I do;

When I put a tails out reel on the right turntable, I let the tail of the tape (ha ha,.. tail of the tape for all you boxing fans) hang down to my desk top plus another half foot or so. I grab the tape with my right hand just above where it touches the desk to and loop it over the right side of the tensioners/guides/headblock. At this point, I'm not even looking to see if it's in the guides or between the headshields. I just want to be sure there aren't any twists in the tape.
 
Then I pull the tape through the left side in one motion and lay it on top of the empty reel. The extra 6 inches or so is slack I want to get rid of.
I move the reel so one of the windage holes is on top and put my finger (left hand)on the tape through that hole to secure the tape.
With my right hand I turn the flange of the right reel while looking for the end of the tape as it slips under my finger on the left reel. When I see the tape end I start to turn that reel with my left hand while still securing the tape end.
When the reel is about a quarter turned I switch to my finger on my right hand securing the tape end.
I continue turning the reel with my left hand which is now free and slip my finger off of the tape as the next layer covers it (when you fingers at the bottom).
Now, double check to be sure there aren't any twists in the tape.

All this happens during the first half turn of the reel and unless you have some slick plastic leader, the second layer of tape should hold down the tape. Even if it doesn't completely, go ahead and and try hitting rewind. It might slip for a couple of turns but many times it will catch and start rewinding correctly.

OK,.. I know this all sound kinda complicated but once it becomes second nature, 3 seconds is kinda slow!

[Ki Choi]

Larry:

The B2 (like Sony APR-5003)'s reel spindle doesn't have the spring loaded three prong pull out flange.  It relies on clamping action from turning the top section of the hub that causes brass collar to grab onto the bare spindle.  Some of the hubs on B2s are hard to remove for 7.5" reel use but once you take the old hub apart for proper lub and going through several install/uninstall exercises, it's not so bad.

Ki